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Are Herbal Hair Loss Remedies a Scam?

Many people that experience hair loss resign themselves to a process that is, for many, an inevitable part of life. But for others the onset of balding or excessive hair loss causes untold worry and suffering.

The use of herbs to treat hair loss remains extremely popular, not least of all because they are viewed as a safe and effective alternative to medical treatments, and are generally free of adverse effects. Due to the emotional and psychological issues associated with hair loss and baldness, there is an enormous demand for treatments – and huge scope for the unscrupulous to peddle their lotions and potions. Herbal hair loss treatments account for well over 50% of the hair loss market.

Medicinal herbs have been used to treat baldness for thousands of years but have they been successful? Since the discovery of the primary cause of hereditary baldness, namely dihydrotestosterone (DHT), many new herbs have emerged as hair loss remedies. Plants that have been used in traditional herbal medicine to treat prostate problems are of particular interest. In common with male and female pattern baldness, prostate enlargement is often linked to DHT. Saw palmetto has been used for many decades to treat prostate enlargement. More recently it has become widely used in natural hair loss remedies. It is often referred to as a natural alternative to the drug finasteride, but without the side effects. However, the effectiveness of saw palmetto has yet to be verified in clinical studies.

Other plants used in the treatment of the prostate gland are also being incorporated into hair loss remedies. Such plants include Pygeum africanum, stinging nettle, soy beans extract and pumpkin seeds. The problem with many natural products is that their therapeutic efficacy has not been verified in clinical trials.

Another herb that is frequently used in natural hair loss treatments is Fo-Ti, also called He Shou Wu. Fo-Ti is a traditional Chinese health tonic used since the 9th century A.D. Although there is no scientific evidence showing that Fo-Ti is capable of reversing baldness, it is an extremely popular ingredient in hair loss products.

There are many other popular herbs used in hair loss treatments such as gingko biloba. This herb is believed to improve blood circulation in the scalp, thus helping to maintain hair follicle health. Other herbs are used to help fight inflammation and infections of the scalp.

Some hair loss treatments do actually have scientific evidence to back them up, but manufacturers do not seek FDA-approval for their baldness treatments due to the enormous financial outlay involved in funding toxicology studies and clinical trials.

Common herbal treatments for hair loss

Hair loss is a problem experienced not only by men but also by women. Common herbal treatments for hair loss include:

Black cohosh (Acteae racemosa): This is a phytoestrogen herb used to alleviate symptoms associated with the menopause in women. A frequent symptom of the menopause is thinning hair resulting from decreased estrogen levels.

Dong quai (Angelica sinensis): This is another phytoestrogen herb used to alleviate menopausal symptoms including hair loss in women.

Ginkgo biloba: This is a tree originally from East Asia that can now be found in many temperate zones around the world. Extract of Ginkgo biloba is thought to improve blood circulation to the brain and skin. Ginkgo is used as an active ingredient in some commercial hair loss remedies. However, no clinical studies on its efficacy in treating hair loss have yet been carried out. Given its suspected ability to interact with some pharmaceutical drugs, ginkgo should be used with caution. The recommended dose is 120-160mg of dry extract each day spread over three doses.

Gotu kola: This is a perennial plant native to Southeast Asia and Northern Australia. Gotu kola has been used as a medicinal herb for thousands of years in India, China and Indonesia. Because of its ability to heal wounds, combat inflammation and treat various skin conditions, it can be found in many natural topical products for treating hair loss. Gotu kola is believed to promote hair growth by fortifying collagen and blood vessels and stimulating blood flow to the scalp.

Green tea (Camellia sinesis): This tea has been credited with providing a wide variety of health benefits, many of which have yet to be validated by scientific studies (e.g. its potential for treating male pattern baldness). It is thought that catechins found in green tea may inhibit the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase that converts testosterone into DHT.

He Shou Wu (Polygonum multiflorum): Also known as Fo-Ti, this Chinese herb has traditionally been used to reduce hair loss. It is found in many commercial hair loss preparations, and can also be ingested in tea and capsule form.

Horsetail (Equisetum arvense): A good source of silica, this herb helps maintain the strength and condition of hair.

Licorice Extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra): Licorice extract has been shown to inhibit the most potent testosterone 5-alpha-reductase, and also androgen receptor binding and antimicrobial activities, which are closely related to sebum secretion. This product can prevent hair loss but should be avoided by pregnant women because of the adverse effects it may have on the developing fetus. If ingested in higher than recommended amounts it can cause sexual dysfunction.

Nettle root (Urtica dioica): Nettles are a common weed native to Europe, Asia, North America and North Africa. They have been used as a folk treatments for centuries. Both the leaves and the root are incorporated in various remedies. The root is often used in herbal medicines to relieve the symptoms of benign prostatic hyperplasia (BPH). It is therefore assumed that it could prevent the conversion of testosterone to DHT, but clinical studies have not yet been carried out to back this up. Applying an extract of nettles to the scalp is said to stimulate hair growth. A number of studies using cell cultures and animals have demonstrated that extracts of nettle root partially blocked the action of two enzymes (5-alpha-reductase and aromatase) involved in the body’s production of DHT and estrogen. However, nettle root extract was effective only at high concentrations. Although it remains uncertain as to whether or not nettles are really effective against baldness in man, nettles are frequently used as one of the active ingredients in many commercial hair loss remedies. It can be taken in pill or capsule form at doses of 50-100 mg per day. It is reputed to be more effective when combined with pygeum and saw palmetto.

Pumpkin seed oil (Cucurbita maxima): An oil extracted from pumpkin seeds contains delta-7-sterine. Pumpkin seed oil is rich in iron, zinc and essential fatty acids. It has been used for centuries as a traditional herbal treatment for prostate problems. Pumpkin seed oil is believed to be a natural DHT blocker. The potency of this herbal remedy is still under scientific investigation. At present, no clinical study exists regarding its potency to block DHT or its effectiveness in treating baldness.

Pygeum africanum: This is a large evergreen tree found in central and southern Africa. The extracts from its bark contain several compounds have been used for decades to treat BPH. In common with saw palmetto and nettle root, pygeum is believed to inhibit the enzyme 5-alpha reductase which converts testosterone to follicle-damaging DHT. Despite a lack of clinical evidence of any positive impact on hair loss, pygeum can be found in a number of natural hair loss remedies. The recommended dose ranges from 60 – 500mg per day in pill or capsule form.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis): The oil extracted from rosemary contains antioxidants. It is very effective in treating dandruff, which is one of the scalp conditions that can lead to hair loss.

Saw palmetto (Serenoa repens): Saw palmetto extract is made from the fruit of a small palm tree which grows in the southeastern US. It is the primary active ingredient in many natural hair loss remedies, including Advecia, Avacor, Procerin, Provillus, Revivogen, Scalp Med and many others. Saw palmetto has been used extensively to treat BPH. It is rich in fatty acids and phytosterols and is believed to be able to block dihydrotestosterone (DHT). Research findings regarding saw palmetto are conflicting. There are papers that have reported that saw palmetto is beneficial in treating BPH. However, there are also research studies that claim that saw palmetto may not have any effect on the plasma concentration of DHT or the prostate gland itself. Saw palmetto has never been clinically evaluated as a hair loss treatment, and its efficacy and mechanism of action remain unknown. In addition, saw palmetto can have side effects and should be used with caution. The recommended dose is a 160mg capsule twice each day, but the ingredients need to be made from the berry extract and not the dried berries themselves.

Siberian ginseng (Eleutherococcus senticosus): This herb is a popular folk medicine in Russia and China. Siberian ginseng is rich in minerals and is believed to reduce stress levels. It appears to be beneficial in stimulating hair growth in women. Ginseng has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, and is thought to increase endurance, improve memory and boost the immune system. It is often used as one of the ingredients in natural hair loss treatments, although no clinical studies on any of these treatments have been carried out to date.

Commercial herbal hair loss products

Popular herbal hair loss products include Advecia, Arcon Tisane, Avacor, Calosol, Crinagen, Fabao, Follicare, Folligen, Hair Genesis, Inhairit, Min New York, Nanogen, Nioxin, Nisim, New Hair, Procapil, Procerin, ProFollica, Provillus, Regenix, Revivogen, Scalp Med, Shen Min, Spectral DNC, ThymuSkin and Tricomin.

Several studies have shown that certain non-drug products promote hair growth. However, none have yet been approved by the FDA. As mentioned, this is mainly due to the prohibitive costs involved in conducting clinical trials to prove that the products are safe and effective. Many hair treatment professionals and dermatologists nonetheless recommend the use of certain non-drug treatments. Treatments work best if started before hair loss becomes overly excessive. Once the hair follicles have degenerated and vascular supply is lost, hair will not re-grow. Other than hair transplantation there is no known treatment that can restore areas of the scalp where the hair follicles have died.

Arcon Tisane is currently one of Europe’s top selling natural supplements for hair loss. It comes as a capsule and sub-lingual spray. Arcon Tisane contains saw palmetto and fenugreek and is thought to inhibit the production of DHT. It has been clinically tested and has received widespread media coverage.

Calosol is a product aimed at treating Alopecia areata. It consists of a shampoo and an accelerator applied daily in order to stimulate the hair roots, thus reducing hair loss and promoting healthy hair.

Fabao 101 was developed by a dermatologist and comes in varying formats, each designed to treat a particular form of hair loss. The products are derived from plant sources.

Folligen copper peptide products are designed to improve scalp health, reduce hair loss and stimulate hair re-growth. They can be used by both men and women. Studies at universities and medical research institutes have established the effectiveness of the technology utilized in Folligen products.

Procerin is a hair loss product manufactured by Speedwinds Nutrition Inc. It is supplied in the form of a tablet and topical scalp application for daily use for the treatment and prevention of male hair loss. Procerin reverses male hair loss caused by androgenetic alopecia, the most common cause of baldness in men. It consists of a blend of herbs, vitamins and minerals specifically formulated to inhibit the production of DHT. Because Procerin is an all-natural non-prescription remedy for hair loss, it can be obtained without a prescription. The manufacturer of Procerin claims an 88% success rate in re-growing hair.

Provillus is a hair loss treatment manufactured by Ultra Herbal Inc for both men and women. The product has been designed to provide nutrients that stop hair loss and stimulate new growth. The Provillus formulation was also designed to block DHT (dihydrotestostrone). Because Provillus (capsules) is designated as a food supplement, no prescription is required for its purchase. Although there are many satisfied users of Provillus, not all testimonials are positive. Provillus topical lotion contains the drug Minoxidil which can have side effects.

Revivogen is a hair loss treatment that is believed to reduce DHT production, block androgen receptors and stimulate hair growth. It is used topically and has no known side effects.

Shen Min is another natural hair loss treatment designed to restore and re-grow hair in both men and women. It contains a blend of Chinese herbs.

ThymuSkin was developed to reduce hair loss in patients undergoing chemotherapy treatment for cancer. Due to its success the product is now marketed to combat all types of hair loss. Clinical studies have shown that ThymuSkin can be effective in reducing or stopping hair loss and stimulating varying degrees of hair re-growth in both men and women.

Tricomin is a treatment that delivers copper to the base of the hair follicle and it too has been shown clinically to reduce or stop hair loss and stimulate hair re-growth. It can be used in combination with other hair loss treatments and appears to augment the effects of finasteride and minoxidil.